I usually collect a little extra grain for my decoction because the scooping, straining, and stirring will loose some heat. then add it back to the MLT, and stir it into the main mash. Kettles are also regularly used as mash tuns and there are also some purpose built stainless mash tuns. That insulation helps maintain a steady temp throughout the mash process. It takes about 5 minutes or so to get the whole grain bed up to boiling temperature. Many homebrewers convert coolers to mash tuns. I put some water in it and, as expected, there is a slow leak that appears to be coming from behind the washers you see in the 2nd picture under step 5. When it starts to boil, reduce the heat slightly and keep stirring. to increase my batch size without needing to top up the urn with water after BIAB mash, i have been trying to split my mash, 50 of the grist in the urn as a BIAB, and 50 of the grist in a separate mash tun (5gall cooler). I put it together anyway as best I could following the instructions up to where the ball valve is attached, and I cannot get it tight enough to where I can't spin the entire ball valve assembly around. When i am using the urn with BIAB im am limited to batch sizes. Well there is plenty of room, so much room that if I let go of the metal piece it just falls right out, there is maybe 1/4 inch between the gasket and the nipple. Ive been brewing for about a year, having done 5 extract with specialty grain batches and 2 all-grain. Igloo works great for 5 gal beer batches - typically about 10lbs of grain and 3.5 gal of water makeup the mash. Normally, you would use about 2/3 to 3/4 of the volume during mashing. As far as the theory I was illustrating, the relevant weight is what the mash and water come in contact with. Smaller is better - match your cooler size to the beer batch size to get a good bed depth. It doesnt matter how, as long as its consistent and effective. Foundation water can do that or you can hit the side walls from the CIP spray ball(s). Step 4 states that inserting the nipple through the hole with the gasket in place should be difficult, but doable. Youre putting the energy into the metal rather than letting it come from the mash heat. The dead space field on BeerSmith is something I have truly never really figured out and do not see much commentary on around the web. True 'dead space' is 1.50 gallons and 0.82 gallons when using a dip tube. There is 2.08 gallons under the false bottom. Only to find out that since 2011, the size of the hole left behind when you remove the spigot on a 10 gallon Home Depot cooler is much larger than 3/8. The flat false bottom sits above the drain. I followed the following Mash Tun tutorial:
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